By the Middle Ages, distillation had spread across Europe, and it became indisputable that the process was being used to create alcohol. Often made by carefully heating wine in an 'Alembic Still', the resulting distillate became known as aqua vitae and appears increasingly frequently in European records from the 12th century onwards. This pure spirit, often infused with nuts, berries or spices, would eventually evolve into the Scotch whisky we know today.
The Arrival of Distillation in Scotland
It's most likely that the Alembic Still came to the British Isles by way of travelling monks. In Scotland, the art of distillation remained the preserve of religious houses until they faded away following the Scottish Reformation in the latter half of the sixteenth century.
The first written evidence of aqua vitae in Scotland appears in the 1492 Exchequer Rolls (the accounts of the Crown) and relates to John Cor, a monk from Lindores Abbey, who had been commissioned by the King to make aqua vitae from eight bolls (an early Scottish measure) of malt. This royal commission suggests that aqua vitae production was already well-established and valued in Scotland by the late 15th century.
A Different Spirit Entirely
Despite being distilled from malted barley, this early spirit would have been very different to the Scotch whisky we know and love today. Part of what would transform aqua vitae—and remove the need for additives of one kind or another—was maturing the spirit in wooden casks.
This practice probably became common over the course of the nineteenth century. Dr Samuel Johnson's 1755 Dictionary of the English Language makes no reference to barrels when he describes the spirit:
"Usqueba'ugh. n. [An Irish and Erse word, which signifies the water of life.] It is a compounded distilled spirit, being drawn on aromaticks; and the Irish sort is particularly distinguished for its pleasant and mild flavour. The Highland sort is somewhat hotter; and, by corruption, in Scottish they call it whisky."
Notice how Dr Johnson describes it as "compounded" and "drawn on aromaticks"—clear evidence that additives were still considered essential to make the spirit palatable.
The Discovery of Maturation
Yet by 1879, perspectives had dramatically changed. A book called 'Truths about Whisky' (jointly published by four Dublin distilleries) could wax lyrical about the transformative impact of maturation:
"The grain constituents of perfectly new Whisky are not palatable in the estimation of people in general; but after about a year the Whisky may said to be drinkable, after about two years to be good, and after about three years to be as good as anything with which the average consumer is likely to become acquainted. Those, however, who have only drunk three-year-old Whisky, can scarcely form an idea of the effect of longer keeping, always in the wood. […] When a bottle of such Whisky is opened, it literally, like fine old Burgundy, fills the room with its fragrance, and that fragrance is more delicate than anyone who is unacquainted with it, or who is acquainted only with the smell of common so-called Whisky, could by any possibility conceive."
The Role of Oak Casks
Whether it was through conscious experimentation or simply forgetting a cask in the basement, maturation quickly became a vital part in the process of making Scotch whisky. During the late 1800s, ex-sherry transport casks became increasingly accessible. Although these were originally used for storage and shipping, distillers soon realised the incredible impact they had on flavour, and sherry-matured Scotch has been a firm favourite ever since.
Nowadays, distilleries understand the impact of different aspects of the cask: the oak species used, the number of previous fills, whether the wood has been treated with fire, and even the size of the barrel are all known to influence the final flavour. The science behind maturation continues to fascinate whisky makers and enthusiasts alike.
Further Reading
- The Science and Commerce of Whisky Ian Buxton & Paul Hughes
- Accidental Aging and the Birth of Whiskey As We Know It Bill Owens, 2019
- Truths About Whisky 1879 Printed by Sutton Sharpe & Co